It was the last day on big water and a consistent and blustery onshore 19mph wind had the water whipped up into a froth of whitecaps.    Within minutes I regressed to about six years old, smashing through waves and catching the occasional well-formed one in.  I paddled to exhaustion. Carrying my board up the hill, a guy about my age was coming down with his swim goggles in hand.

"You're going to swim in that?!?," I asked.

"Yeah, he said.  I know it's crazy, but I'm heading out in the morning and I have to get one last shot in.  You were out in that?!?"

"Yeah," I responded.  I know it's crazy, but I'm heading out in the morning and I had to get one last shot in."